I personally find food history a fascinating area of study and reflection. As any other identity-related story, it reveals very important national positionings and strategies. Plus, it may distract you from too high and theoretical thoughts, because makes you think of delicious foods.
´(...) as a national symbol, food carries the emotional charge of a flad and an anthem, those ´invented traditions´ crucial to building and sustaining a nation, to claiming deep historical roots´.
Anya von Bremzen is a well known food critic and writer, and her Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking is an food rendition of communist memories. Born in Moscow, she often travels the world to go beyond the simple act of food tasting.
In her latest, National Dish, she is trying to discover how specific foods - like ramen, for instance - were upgrated to the level of identity representation. She included in the list France, Spain, Italy, Japan and Mexico, with notable mentions of borsch(t). Von Bremzen is throughout researching her topics but it´s also taking the pulse of the street, tasting dishes and comparing tastes. In the end, there are food myths that are peeled and de-constructed, to separate the genuine from the conservants, the adaptations and original formats.
This book offers very important support for debates about food and identity, as well as the food wars that do reveal the extent of political interventions and ideologies in our everyday life and dishes. A recommended read for the historian of mentalities and the food historian as well.
Rating: 5 stars
